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Why we do not sell gold plated jewellery

Tuesday, February 13th, 2024

I am often asked if I sell gold-plated jewellery – being a cheaper alternative to my solid gold work. Although gold-plated jewellery is exceedingly less costly than solid gold work ( especially in the weights I use) I explain below why it is such an inferior form of jewellery and should be avoided.

What Is Gold-Plated Jewellery?

Gold-plated jewellery refers to jewellery that has a thin layer of gold applied to the surface of another metal. These metals can be silver, brass, or copper. This is the least expensive of the gold options. Gold plating is a method of covering up another type of metal with a very thin layer of gold via electroplating. This method results in only about 0.5-1 microns of gold on plated jewellery, meaning that these pieces don’t offer much in terms of longevity. Additionally, it is not always good for those who are allergic to different types of metals, as the gold rubs off. There are a few different ” varieties” of gold-plated jewellery, as discussed below.

Gold-Filled
Gold-filled has a heavier plating than standard gold-plated jewellery, making it slightly more durable. Created differently, with two to three layers of gold being bonded to a base metal (such as jeweller’s brass). This may last you somewhat longer than a standard gold-plated piece, but still, it will show wear and tear within months. Don’t be fooled into thinking “gold-filled” means solid gold!

Gold Vermeil
Gold Vermeil sounds fancy because it is essentially a fancier version of gold-filled. It differs in that the base metal must be sterling silver, and that the gold used is often 10 carat or above. The gold layer is typically a gold leaf or powder and must be at least 2.5 microns thick. But it also wears off over time.

Does gold-plated jewellery have any value?

Quick answer NO.

In summary, just don’t do it

Unfortunately, all these variations of gold plating have often been known to turn human skin green, or worse still cause allergies. They also frequently end up in the trash, being cheaply made and mass-produced. Gold plating has all the hallmarks of fast fashion, get the look, forget about longevity. The gold plating process involves the chemical ‘Potassium gold cyanide’. Cyanide is toxic to humans! There are cases of deaths in third-world countries, that do not have safe work practices.

Cyanide waste is also incredibly expensive to manage, and I shudder at how much of it possibly ends up unmarked in landfills.

My advice at the end of the day would be to save your pennies until you can commit to the real thing!

 

 

Posted in News

The Jewellery Remodelling Process Explained

Monday, January 22nd, 2024

Have you ever looked at your old, worn-out jewellery and wondered if there’s a way to breathe new life into it? Maybe it is a wedding ring from an ex, inherited jewellery from loved ones or just old jewellery that doesn’t suit you anymore. Transforming unworn jewellery can let you preserve the sentimental value of your cherished pieces while giving them a fresh, contemporary look.

What is Jewellery Remodelling?

Jewellery remodelling is the art of reimagining and redesigning existing pieces to create something new and personal. Something more “you”. It involves working with a jeweller who can assess the current state of your jewellery and collaborate with you to bring your vision to life. It is often a fluid process where designs are made and refined until the end product can be created.

What Materials Can Be Used?

One fun aspect of jewellery remodelling is the versatility of materials that can be used. Precious metals, most often gold, can be melted down and reshaped into new settings, while gemstones can be repurposed to adorn a brand-new piece. This process allows for a sustainable approach to jewellery. A form of upcycling. Silver can not be remodelled in this way.

How Long Does the Process Take?

The duration of the jewellery remodelling process will vary depending on the complexity of the project. Simple redesigns may take a few weeks. More intricate transformations will of course require extra time. 

Clear communication and shared vision with the designer will help make a smoother and more efficient process. This might involve sharing ideas from other jewellery you like from say Instagram or other websites. Getting clarity on what type of piece you want made, is the first step, and then the artistry begins.

Why Remodel?

There are several compelling reasons to consider jewellery remodelling. Firstly, sentimental value is often attached to pieces that have been passed down through generations. Remodelling allows you to preserve the emotional connection while updating the design to suit your taste. It’s an eco-friendly choice, as it reduces the need for new materials and minimizes waste. Remodelling can save money compared to selling old jewellery to buy new jewellery.

Trends in fashion and design evolve over time, especially through generations. Jewellery that was once fashionable might now seem outdated. Remodelling enables you to keep up with current styles and trends. 

Most clients that have old jewellery remodelled are thrilled with the outcome. Jewellery that sits in a drawer somewhere, never being worn is like a wasted asset. Turning it into something you love, can be a fun and exciting experience. You end up with something that is uniquely yours.

If you are thinking about remodelling some old jewellery pieces and want to work with an experienced jewellery who can create what you want, then simply contact me today. I’d love to chat about your ideas and give advice on how you can make the most of the process.

Posted in News

Getting jewellery custom made

Wednesday, October 4th, 2023

The majority of the pieces you see on this site will have been customer commissions. I pride myself on my “Bespoke” work and client commissions, having created many handmade jewellery pieces for discerning clients Worldwide.

The process should be exciting, fun and downright easy, it rarely costs you more than something off the shelf as I specialise in custom-made-to-order works.

However, due to the massive amount of enquiries I receive, I tend to be VERY DIRECT so please do not take offence at all if I ask straight-out questions, so we are both on exactly the same page before any work commences.

Occasionally my directness gets misinterpreted as ‘rudeness” – so if you are the type of person who is hyper-sensitive, then I am definitely not the jeweller for you.

So here are a few simple ways that you as the customer can make my life ( and yours too!) a little bit easier 🙂

1: HAVE SOME IDEA/S– of what you like and what you don’t like.

It’s pointless emailing me saying “I really want you to design and make me a ring”

Try to reference styles of mine you like, colours you like, widths you like, surfaces-shiny, brushed, organic, rose gold, yellow gold, white gold.

Be a little flexible with the design, I will be creating a ONE-OFF for you, hence it will not be EXACTLY the same as the one you saw on my Facebook, Instagram or this website.

Custom work is ALL about communication!

2: Be REALISTIC regarding the design – I will not create anything that is not within my design style/aesthetic – e.g. a boring 3-claw ring or something you would see at Michael Hill, or in a commercial jewellery store.

I will not reproduce copies or styles of jewellery that are not mine, you can send pictures of styles you like, but please do not expect a direct copy of them.

Chances are if you do that, I will not respond.

3BUDGET – I need to know how much you want to spend, again be realistic. Whilst I can often “tweak” things to reduce costs do not expect me to perform miracles.

4: Tell me a bit ABOUT YOU – or the person it is being created for.

Are they sporty, funky, romantic, ethical, or boho – do they like green, blue, or violet?

That kind of thing really helps me out.

5: FINGER SIZE

If it’s a ring this helps so much, it’s difficult to quote for a gold ring as a small finger size versus a larger finger will take considerably more gold, and hence cost much more.

Not sure how to establish the finger size?

I go into full details about this in another blog – but here’s the edited quick version

Visit a local jewellery store.

This is by far the most accurate and the most straightforward way to find out your or your partner’s ring size. If you have not the slightest clue about the size, visit a local jeweller or jewellery store. Even if you don’t buy from them, many jewellers will measure your finger for free. Please consider this option as your premier choice if you are looking for an engagement ring online. When you provide the most accurate measurements, you will be 100% sure that the ring will fit perfectly.

6: ESTABLISH/CONFIRM THE DESIGN 

Once we establish some basic ideas I will run up some quick sketches and a plan – and yes, they will be quick and very simple, I do not charge “custom fees” as many jewellers do, so please do not expect detailed rendered drawings.

Once we are both comfortable with the design a deposit is taken *(deposits depend on the final cost of the work but on gold rings average $500.00 -$1000). These are NON-REFUNDABLE once work has commenced.

All custom work is non-returnable or refundable.

My turnaround can vary from 3-8 weeks – if you need something urgently just ask.

Shipping is available WORLDWIDE, I will discuss all options with you.

Rest assured, with over 27 years in the business of custom-made jewellery, I know what I am doing!

Posted in News

Should you buy your engagement ring off instagram?

Tuesday, August 22nd, 2023

You’ve seen the ring of your dreams- you were casually scrolling through Instagram ( or perhaps even Tiktok). Then, “WHAM”, there it is all in its scrollalicious glory, staring back at you saying buy me, BUY ME NOW!

However, before you push add to cart here are a few things I feel you should check out first.

Once upon a time ( in a galaxy not so far away ) jewellery buying involved heading to the local jewellery store, most towns had them, and many still do. Then perhaps if you wanted something more outside the standard ring box, you would head to a contemporary jewellery gallery, where you could perhaps get a custom ring made by one of the jewellers they represented. ( whilst the gallery takes a big fat custom fee for the privilege).

But how things have changed, social media has bought to the forefront an endless stream of jewellery delights, and as we know with the algorithm, look at one ring and you will be shown many many more, to the point of ring overload.

So let’s start with a few basic questions to ask to help you make the right decisions.

1: WHAT IS IT MADE OF?

Sounds simple right? But often the gold you are seeing “online” these days is only gold-plated, gold-filled, or gold vermeil ( a fancy French word for heavy gold plated.) Unfortunately, it all wears off and is definitely not suitable for engagement or wedding rings. What is/are the gems in it, are they real or lab-grown? What are their dimensions *( often things look way bigger online so ask for MM sizes, not just carat weights). Is the gem securely set in the ring? Is the gem actually hard enough for everyday wear?

Photos can often blur the truth, I have seen rings online and then in person at a fancy jewellery gallery in Sydney and was amazed by how ridiculously tiny the gems used were in reality,  compared to the pictures on Instagram.

2: WHERE IS IT MADE?

There is a lot, and I mean A LOT of stuff online that looks the part ( eg: handmade) but it’s just a copy or even worse a rip-off of another jeweller’s work. Fake accounts get set up constantly and some really do look like the genuine profile. Ask where and who makes the rings. The last thing you want is a locally designed eg: Australian-designed ring, that’s actually made offshore. Ask if it is solid or hollowed out, is it CAD produced ( mass produced ) in a factory, handmade entirely, or just ” hand assembled” ( I go into more detail about the difference between handmade jewellery versus hand-assembled  in a previous blog )

3: HOW LONG HAVE THEY BEEN IN BUSINESS?

It goes without saying if you are buying a lifetime investment, maybe do your homework. Does the profile have a physical shop or just an online presence? Do they have Google or Facebook reviews, or any reviews for that matter? These days it seems anyone fresh out of RMIT or after watching a few Youtube videos can call themselves a jeweller. Then they set up an online business and start selling. And no, I am not knocking the self-taught at all. It’s just creating custom engagement rings and wedding rings is a big responsibility not to be taken lightly.

What is their backup plan if you do not like it, or if it needs a repair, are they knowledgeable about gemstones and durability, or different metals and their hardness?

4: WILL IT SUIT YOU?

A good jeweller with experience in ” fitting” rings should be able to guide you remotely. Ideally it is better in person, but often it is just not possible when you’re not in the same town. This can include what metal colour they feel would work with your skin type tone. They can also look at your finger shape, and length and ascertain what would work, and what would not.

So in summary, ask all those hairy questions, loads of them! And remember, if the price is exceedingly cheap, and it seems too good to be true, chances are it’s a complete piece of sh@t.

 

 

 

 

Posted in News

Sustainability and Responsibilty

Thursday, June 15th, 2023

ONE-OFF OR SMALL BATCH HANDMADE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY
Our jewellery is one-of-a-kind or made in small runs (often just a couple of pieces at a time). We don’t have large warehouses of excess stock that becomes landfill at the end of each season. Most of our jewels have a home before they’re even made. We create most work completely “In house”, being a tiny two person company ( Debra and Hubby Dean).

ETHICALLY SOURCED GEMSTONES
We source gemstones primarily from Australian merchants, miners and cutters. These include suppliers of Australian sapphires and diamonds who restore their mining sites after use, recycle wastewater and are powered by renewable energy.
We are big fans of lab-created gemstones as not only are they more sustainably made, they are also identical to mined gems with less flaws and cost. Lab-created gems have a lower carbon footprint as they do not need the same amount of resources and labour as mined gems.

MINIMAL CHEMICALS IN THE WORKSHOP
Harsh chemicals like sulphuric acid are substituted with natural and environmentally friendly options such as citric acid. Spent chemicals are disposed of safely so they don’t enter wastewater streams and landfill. As
custom jewellery designers, we also want to avoid breathing in toxic chemicals in our workplace.

RESPONSIBLE METALS
Our metals are from local providers who invest in minimising their environmental impact. We recycle all of our studio scrap and excess for reuse, recycle all our gold, and purchase the majority from a New Zealand supplier specialising in alluvial gold from the South Island of New Zealand. These alluvial operations must comply with strict Department of Conservation protocols which firmly puts the responsibility on gold exploration, extraction and processing companies to minimise their environmental impact over the whole life cycle of their activities.

RECYCLED PACKAGING
We send your handmade Australian jewellery into the world in recyclable jewellery boxes, recycled paper packaging and recycled postage satchels. Any protective padding (like bubble wrap) is either recycled or paper-based and we’re always looking for ways to do better. Please help by reusing your packaging where possible and recycling it when it reaches the end of its life.

PRE-LOVED MATERIALS
Ever wondered what to do with Grandma’s old rings that aren’t quite your style? Creating new pieces from heirlooms is a great way to turn your treasures (and their stories) into beautiful, environmentally friendly jewellery.

WE ARE OLD SCHOOL “GREENIES”
Before the words, ethical, Fairtrade, and reclaimed became over used on every new jewellery labels website Debra was recycling gold and gems in the workshop through her many remodels.
Adding to this her and her husband live and work on Acreage in the Noosa Hinterland and are committed to creating a permaculture lifestyle on the property, removing weed species that compete with natives on the property and supporting the local wildlife as much as possible.

They are active members of Land for Wildlife in the area.

Posted in News

Are Moissanite fake diamonds?

Wednesday, April 26th, 2023
Addressing one of my most common questions – “Are Moissanites ‘FAKE’ diamonds?”
Naturally one of the most common questions people ask about moissanite is whether or not they are ‘fake’ diamonds.
If I am to be completely honest, it makes me just a little sad whenever I hear someone ask that. This is because it shows that all the years of advertising and propaganda from the major diamond companies are truly ingrained into our culture.
Why must everything be compared to diamonds, to begin with even?
It is clear that when people ask that question, what they are really asking is if moissanite stones look enough like diamonds to fool people into thinking they are in fact a diamond. Now, if someone were to ask me that. I would reply “to the untrained eye, yes a moissanite is very passable as a diamond”. But no, they are nothing like Cubic Zirconia!
To those still deciding whether or not to go the moissanite ring route, because they have yet to see them in person, I would say to stop overthinking it and just get one!
Why? Because, unless you are a jeweller or gemologist, or someone you know perhaps, chances are you or they won’t know the difference. It’s rather mind-blowing that in 2023 our society is still very heavily stuck on the idea that a diamond ring is the only acceptable way to propose to our significant others.
Like, come on really?
That said, moissanite is not a fake diamond. They are stunning gemstones all on their own. Just like sapphires and emeralds are different gemstones entirely. Except rather than coming out of the ground, they are made in a laboratory.
My advice to anyone choosing to purchase a handmade moissanite ring for their engagement or wedding ring, is to own it and wear it proudly for what it is, not what you are trying to make it appear to be.
Be proud of the fact you choose a sustainable, ethically produced, non-mined alternative, rather than buy into the diamond myth. Because that’s in my opinion what it is. And i am not the only one, as this article suggests. https://mediavsreality.medium.com/diamonds-the-greatest…
In conclusion, wear your moissanite with pride and love it just as much as the person who gives it to you because love shouldn’t be dependent on a diamond in a ring. And if they have chosen to have a jeweller create a custom engagement ring for you, then that surely shows more care and love than just the type of stone.

Posted in News

Real handmade jewellery vs machine made hand assembled jewellery

Thursday, March 30th, 2023

You may hear me talk about how my work is hand fabricated, handmade, artisan, or handcrafted. I will sometimes throw in the most overused and possibly misunderstood word in the industry “ bespoke” for good measure.

I have always handmade my work, from start to finish, from the design sketch to the final item.

For me, the making or journey is just as important as the final product and gives connection and grounding to the end result, not to mention greater control over the end quality.

Personally, I feel the jewellery industry needs to be more transparent in its processes, so you the customer is aware of what you are actually purchasing.

I often see large jewellery companies on social media talking about their “handcrafted jewellery”, when in reality it’s only hand-assembled and more often than not entirely designed and manufactured on a computer then a long assembly line, or sent overseas for cheap labour and final construction.

In truth, their jewellery is not even made in Australia or New Zealand but rather only ‘designed” ( trust me I know many well-known designers and jewellery labels that get everything churned out in Bali. They will try to keep it under wraps, but it’s often on the small print of their websites.)

To me, that is so sly and dishonest. If a couple are buying a handmade wedding rings, they should be that, made by hand.

And yes, occasionally we ourselves will outsource a local setter to set the gems into our pieces if they ( the gems) have challenging cuts and are slightly above our skill set because I want to supply the best product to you the customer I possibly can!

But apart from using a highly experienced diamond setter, everything is created in-house using traditional techniques mixed with lost wax casting.

I use casting in my work as it enables me to build solid, organic, feminine pieces that have a warm flow – crafting each piece individually in wax and then casting only one time ( so everything is a “one-off” ) .

I or we ( Dean and I, my Hubby ) then hand finish each piece by hand, filing and polishing – and if it’s a ring making the centre as buttery smooth as humanly possible!

Dean then carefully drills the gem placement using various burrs, setting the stones carefully and methodically in one by one using a microscope.

He then carefully checks everything is secure and using a graver ( a very sharp pointed tool ) finishes each stone in every piece.

So what is CAD?

CAD (Computer Aided Design) is a process where you can design a jewellery item on a computer and send the file that has been created off to a 3D wax printing machine or company.

The machine will print layers of wax on top of itself until it has created the whole piece of jewellery in wax.

The new CAD wax will then be placed into investment plaster to create a mould of the jewellery, let us say a ring.

Once the plaster has been set hard, the wax is burnt out and another machine heats the mould up and then pours the melted gold or platinum into the mould which then creates a piece identical to what was on the computer.

This is known as CAD casting or mass-production jewellery.

This means a company can produce large volumes of work in an ongoing process, and create identical pieces – or pieces that look the same apart from say a different coloured gem or different coloured metal.

All the jeweller needs to do is clean the casted jewellery, and set in any diamonds or other gems.

So why choose handmade over CAD?

Apart from the cookie cutter look of CAD jewellery, it often holds deeper issues such as pitting in the casting due to poor quality control, settings that are too thin to hold stones in properly, ring bands that use so little metal or are so hollow they buckle and break with everyday wear.

By choosing a handmade piece of jewellery from an Artisan jeweller you will never have the same as everyone else, because even if a design style is replicated it will never be EXACTLY the same due to our methods.

It will be made with methodical care, time and love.

It will hold its value and be a cherished future heirloom.

I have never used CAD and never shall, my work is truly handmade “imperfectly perfect” solid, durable and always made with the utmost care and skill.

This is jewellery to last a lifetime, not just a season.

“While creating jewellery, there is a very intimate relationship with my work. I know every curve and line (is) put there with intention. As a maker, your energy goes into the piece.”

                                                                  DEBRA FALLOWFIELD

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in News

We moved to the Noosa Hinterland, Australia

Wednesday, April 13th, 2022

It’s been a while between drinks and blogs, right?
Most of you would know by now that myself and Mr Deb have left New Zealand and have relocated to Australia’s Sunshine Coast hinterland near Pomona.

Moving countries in your 50s ( or at any age really!) is no easy task, but moving countries during a pandemic has probably been the most challenging and stressful time in my life since living after the Christchurch earthquakes.
There were so many times we thought we would never get here with the Queensland border shut tight and a few times we thought, let’s just call it quits it’s too difficult, find a rental manager for the house in Aus, and remain in NZ because every time we booked a flight it was cancelled.
So we flew into Sydney on December 15 thinking let’s stay the mandatory 14 days as international arrivals, avoid quarantine and drive up crossing interstate into Queensland.
The plan whilst good in theory quickly became a nightmare that revolved around finding Covid testing sites.
First the day after arrival, then 3 days after, then 6 days, just as Omicron took off and we became caught up in the madness of 10-hour queues for testing and the huge backlog of people also trying to get across into Queensland.
Of course, Murphy’s Law would have it that the day after we finally made it across the border Queensland dropped the 72-hour pre-Covid testing.

I am a strong, fierce woman – but geez – it nearly broke me.

But we’re here, and our new life has just begun, there’s still a massive amount of work that needs done daily, but there’s so much to discover whether it be new places to visit or new people to meet – It’s exciting and we want to embrace it fully!
In times like this I try to remember life’s not a destination it’s a journey and there’s always calm amongst the chaos and you just need to reflect on what’s important.

As I mentioned a few times on social media there is still a bit of work to do on the studio before we are fully up and running.
Mr Deb likes to build things properly, so has made the decision to virtually rebuild from the ground up where the old art studio space was.
New lining, new gib, plus replacing a sidewall with windows so we now have a view into the garden #jungle .

“ Do it once. , do it right “ is his motto.

This is not an easy task with building material shortages and 30°C, 90% humidity days, but his persistence is admirable, especially as a few of the locals had to be “moved on  .”
Just the usual scorpions, a huge nest of jumping ants and spiders the size of your fist, however of the stars of the show were two snakes that needed to be removed from the roof space yesterday.
Luckily they were only brown tree snakes and not brown snakes ( yes, Kiwis there is quite a difference ), but still they reared their heads up at being disturbed.
For once Mr Deb actually listened to me when I said using a leaf blower to move them on was possibly not a great idea and let’s call a snake catcher.
He’s ( Mr Deb ) not at all fazed by all this -but I will admit I now have the local snake catcher on speed dial!

SO WHEN WILL WE BE UP AND RUNNING?

Ideally, I would like to be up and running to some degree by the end of February and even if I am not quite ready for custom work then perhaps I could still be open for one on one ( very casual ) appointments at our house, where I show you what I have in stock over a coffee ( or perhaps a cheeky wine, or cocktail)!- we just need a little more furniture to not look like squatters in our own home.
Currently, our container packed up in NZ with Crown in December seems to be not leaving the country anytime soon. ( Hand on head Emoji ).

An ideal new client is look for custom made jewellery in Noosa. However, there is also the the possibility of travelling to Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney renting an Airbnb and doing one on one appointments.
Would anybody be interested in this?
If so do let me know as I need a reasonable amount of people interested to make this kind of thing worthwhile.
I do generally charge a $100 fee for these appointments but the fee is 100% refundable on any purchase order.

In regards to the Eumundi markets as a selling point, I am in two minds.
The more I think about getting up at sparrows fart and lugging heavy cases ( another thing to buy or construct ), setting up, packing down, and constantly being worried about security makes it a long hard day at 56 years young.
I worked markets for so many seasons in the early days of my career and I know-how tiring they can be, plus if it’s a large crowd you can often spend hours talking to the people that are not, in all honesty, your customer base.
Never say never of course – perhaps I will once our lightweight travel cases arrive with the container.

I still welcome absolutely all enquiries regarding anything please do not hesitate to get in touch with me.

Mobile coverage is slightly challenging here as we are surrounded by ( absolutely stunning ) National Park, but I drive into town often so can always call people once back in full range. we are also looking into a mobile booster for a better signal and have a man booked to come on sight this Friday.

My new mobile is +61473072745, email and website are still the same.

Do remember also I’m more than happy to send my custom made engagement rings and all of my unique jewellery worldwide too!

Deb x

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Posted in News

DUNEDIN ~ The ” Deb ” Guide

Friday, October 16th, 2020

Dunedin, Dunners, Dunner Stunner…
Where do I start?
With our closed borders Dunedin is the perfect getaway, be it a sneaky weekend or a week ( or more ).
There is plenty to see and do!
Insiders Dunedin is the coolest website and showcases Dunedin’s quirky, fashionable and downright weird.
https://www.insidersdunedin.co.nz/ followed closely by https://www.mylittlelocal.co.nz/ . or even https://www.dunedinnz.com/.

ACCOMMODATION
Your going to need somewhere to stay and if you love boutique stays like me, my top picks would be the stunning Chamberson Hotel https://thechamberson.co.nz/, or the Terminus Apartments https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Hotel_Review-g255119-d13485773-Reviews-The_Terminus-Dunedin_Otago_Region_South_Island.html.
Or for something a bit out of the box, in Port Chalmers where we live, Buffalo Lodge https://www.airbnb.co.nz/rooms/8652229?source_impression_id=p3_1602208343_u9b07bg5H3ehGTD%2B

FOOD FAVOURITES
For breaky, brunch and lunch you cannot go past Buster Greens *(find them on Facebook ), Union cafe out in Port Chalmers ( Facebook ), Morning Magpie, Vogel Street Kitchen, Precinct, Heritage, the Good Oil, Nova, Market Kitchen, Standard Kitchen, Marbecks, Kiki Beware.
For Gelato ” Gelato Junkie ” in the Octagon.
Don’t forget the farmer’s markets either-loads of yummy food options every Sat, at the Railway Station.
If you are after more plant-based options try The Good Earth, Catalyst, Let them Eat Vegan, Watsons eatery .
For Dinner – pub-style Eureka, or the Portsider ( out here in Port Chalmers ).
For evening dining that is a bit more upmarket do try Moiety ( amazing Degustation at a good price!), Number 7 Balmac or Titi out in St Clair.
There are a few nice restaurants around the Octagon -but being a foodie I would stick to drinks and snacks from them, apart from Pizza Francesca which does do really good Italian Pizza.
Same goes for Emersons and Speights – average food but awesome craft beer for the beer drinker!
There are also some great food trucks such as Citizens and Pattis and Cream for ice cream.
You may have noticed no Ethnic food choices here – my personal opinion is Thai, Indian etc here in Dunedin sucks.
Far too Westernised for me.
But if dulled down is your thing, you can knock yourself out here with loads of options.
Out of town is the famous Fleurs Place https://www.fleursplace.com/ and Riverstone Kitchen https://www.riverstonekitchen.co.nz/ or even further afield in Oamaru is Cucina.

WHAT TO DO
I am only going to touch briefly on this – as where do I start?
Otago’s coastline is stunning, rugged and a bit wild.
Drive out to Aramoana walk along  the pristine seal filled beaches or check out the memorial to all who perished in New Zealand’s second-worst mass shooting, stop at Careys Bay hotel, one of the oldest in NZ for a beverage or two.
Shop new designer clothing or second hand, Dunedin has plenty of choices in both.
Sip Gin at ZANZIBAR ( Facebook) in the evening, they stock over 200 varieties of that..Stuff ( not a fan ).
Take a Hair Raiser tour https://www.riverstonekitchen.co.nz/ ( highly recommended ).
Check out the Street Art, Museum, Art Galleries ( and there are many).

Then if you have time come see me 🙂

Posted in News

Want your ring to last a lifetime?

Saturday, September 19th, 2020

Have you seen those magical, iridescent moonstone rings all over social media?

Or maybe you’re being targeted with those cute teeny tiny fine diamond bands , or the “raw” stone look -which is so “Hot right now!”

Let’s face it social media taps into your history whether you like it or not ,  so if you’re browsing engagement rings (or advertisers believe you’re in that demograph ) you’re probably being bombarded with lots of different ring ads .

For the first time in history brides are finding their rings through instagram and facebook instead of the big commercial jewellery companies . People are moving away from the old diamond 3 stone or solitaire and towards more unique rings , that express their own individuality , which for me as an independent jeweller is bloody awesome.

However there’s a lot more to consider than a ring that looks super pretty on a mobile device.

Unfortunately a lot of the more unique style rings found especially on Instagram are not all that suitable for engagement or wedding rings , because they are just not constructed good enough to be worn everyday .

Plus often they showcase gems that I personally would never recommend using in a ring designed for everyday wear.

Whilst there is no such thing as a good or bad gem , it’s good for you the customer to have some insider knowledge , before you make that expensive purchase.

Remember a chipped stone is not fixable – it’s forever .

Let’s talk firstly about the Mohs scale.

Developed in 1812 by German geologist Friedrich Mohs,  (pronounced “moze”) is used to identify a gem or minerals hardness and resistance to being scratched. This scale has been used by jewellers and geologists for centuries and is still the undisputed authority today.

The scale works like this: a mineral gets a higher rating than a mineral that it can scratch. Diamonds are unable to be scratched by any other mineral or gem and therefore get a perfect 10 rating. The second hardest mineral can be scratched only by diamond but, here’s the thing — this scale isn’t linear, it’s logarithmic — meaning that a diamond isn’t just 1x as hard as the next hardest mineral, it’s many, many times harder (as shown with the sharp upswing in the graph below).

This scale and the concept of  stones being harder than others can be a real wake up call for most people. It also sheds light on why so many wedding and engagement rings use diamonds , simply because they are the hardest natural substance on earth and engagement rings tend to go through a lot of potentially damaging situations within a lifetime of wear.

Jewellers use the the Mohs Scale because it determines which gems are suitable for jewellery making. The harder a stone is, the easier to work with and set without breaking and the more able to handle the wear and tear of everyday tasks without being scratched. I would never assume my customers necessarily know the difference between the two, because  it’s often not disclosed  when you’re ring shopping online or in a store.

Even if you still choose a soft gemstone for your ring, this is perfectly ok , but I do feel it’s my job to at least make you aware of the risks BEFORE purchasing.

The reality is that everything from putting your hand in your pocket to accidentally tapping it against your car door has the potential to leave a mark on a soft stone , and if you drop a ring with a soft stone on say a hard tiled surface , chances are it will chip . Even at our most careful, our normal every day actions can put these stones at risk .

Below is a list of stones you may want to re consider as they have very low durability.

  • Moonstone
  • Turquoise
  • Pearl
  • Labradorite
  • Lapis Lazuli
  • Rose Quartz
  • Zircon
  • Peridot
  • Emerald
  • Paua pearl
  • Greenstone
  • Amber
  • To a much lesser extent Morganite, Garnet, Amethyst , Topaz , Tourmaline – these sit 7-8 on the scale , these will take a few knocks , but I would steer away from them if you are known to be super hard on rings , never take them off , or lead an active , sporty type lifestyle.

Beyond gem hardness, jewellers also rate diamonds and gemstones on toughness, resistance to breaking or chipping, and resistance to temperature changes and household chemicals. Diamonds and sapphires rate high on this scale, but opal, moonstone, and pearl rate exceedingly low.

Beyond chipping and breaking, certain soft stones have distinct weaknesses:

  • Opals can crack or craze if they get too dry,  ending up looking like shattered tempered glass , alway’s choose a SOLID opal .
  • Pearls can lose their trademark iridescence if exposed to hot water, leaving them looking like yellowed plastic.
  • Pearls are very porous and  susceptible to chemicals which they absorb.
  • Over time, Pearls can naturally erode and deteriorate away.
  • Constant wear in water and cleaning products will see the top surface dull on many gems .

So what are good hard wearing gems?

Whilst nothing is indestructible , and I mean NOTHING – even diamonds can break if impacted hard enough, there is a few amazing stones you should be able to rock for a lifetime .

The obvious first choice is diamond – but we all know that these can cost an absolute BOMB , are overpriced  ( Because De Beers control the market )  and have a dubious ethical past which is why I work a lot  in Moissanite .

Moissanite has all the diamond feels and hardness just below diamonds .

I go into full details in a previous blog on why I rate them so highly !

Other choices are sapphires ( which come in all colours!)  , spinel ( many colours as well ) and rubies *( although Rubies and Ceylonese Sapphires do command diamond huge prices).

Once you’ve chosen stones for your ring, you need to look critically at the overall style and setting. One of the biggest trends in the last few years is dainty, delicate looking jewellery with a very light weight metal content . The problem is that metal is what secures your stones in place and a lack of it is guaranteed to lead to problems in the future. When you’re looking at rings, think about whether it looks like it could actually withstand being worn every day. My work is very substantial , even my claw work is very solid compared to those on a commercially produced ring.

Here are some of the design details that don’t ( In my opinion ) cut the mustard.

  • Super dainty thin bands
  • Those “organic ” raw stone rings found all over Instagram with the folded thin metal claws that will just catch on everything and inevitably snap off , not only that , often those raw gems are the lowest grade material that’s too included *( internal cracks, fissures etc) to be cut . You are just asking for life long issues buying into this trend.
  • Micro pave, or teeny tiny low quality diamonds – even my halo rings use a top quality diamond at no smaller than 1.2mm round .
  • Delicate prongs that don’t securely hold the stone(s) in place
  • Cad designed and mass manufactured rings ( pretty much all those cheaper chain store rings ) and the big Fashion Brands.
  • Inverted diamonds- where the “points” stick up out the ring
  • Rings that are too hollowed out internally

Ring metal choice

When it comes to choosing the actual metal for your ring I only work in precious metals eg: gold and silver and occasionally platinum .

Whilst gold is considerably more costly to purchase , it really is ten times more durable than sterling silver . * ( I do go into more details and show the differences in a previous blog post).

However if gold just is not in your budget do choose a style that has some “grunt” to it, and perhaps go for brushed sterling or something with texture that will not show scratches or dents as easily over time.

Please note I do not work in Steel ,Copper , or Titanium .

The bottom line

For me the bottom line is about being transparent in an industry that is more often not.

Remember pretty much everything looks good under halogen lights , but all that glitters is possibly not suitable for everyday wear – don’t be fooled into buying a ring that you want for a lifetime  because it’s a bargain or trending.

With jewellery you definitely get what you pay for, especially in regards to engagement and wedding rings.

So let’s talk, together we can choose the perfect style and gems for your ring , so you can pass it on for generations to come.

 

Posted in News

Ring Sizing

Monday, July 20th, 2020

choosing_ring_sizeRing buying remotely, when you are unable to visit me in person can be slightly challenging.

One of the most frequently asked questions I am asked constantly is “How do I find out my finger size?”.

Below I address this and give you a few tips and pointers on not only how to get this done accurately for yourself, but also for others you may wish to buy for.

If You’re Buying a Ring for Yourself

If it’s for you, then it is a very simple task. Just head into your local jewellery store and get your size measured. It is a free service, so don’t be afraid to ask.

If you are unable to get to a jewellery store, I can courier little sizers (that you can keep) within New Zealand for $15.00

Tips for Getting Your Finger Size Correct

– Time of day and what you are doing at that time can affect your exact ring size. Getting your finger measured towards the end of the day when you’re more relaxed will provide a more accurate measurement.

–  Your knuckle plays a significant role in understanding your ring size. Knuckles are larger than your actual finger, so don’t ignore them when measuring your ring size. The rule here is to select a size in between the measurements of your finger and the knuckle.

– Please do not use string or tape to measure your finger. It is a very unreliable method.

– Double-check if you’re unsure by visiting another jewellery store to make sure you got the sizing right, second opinions can help!

– If you’re a size in between, I suggest leaning towards a tighter rather than a looser fit. It can often be easier to resize a slightly smaller fit, by just gently stretching the ring *(Although this method only works for on some styles, not all). Resizing a ring smaller is a more complicated process and involves cutting the band, taking a piece out, resoldering it back together and then re-polishing. I more often than not use a manufacturing jewellery company in Christchurch for my resizing as repair work isn’t within my skill set.

– Use correct jewellery sizers, metal sizing rings. Keep in mind that if the ring you’re ordering is over 5mm in width, you must get your finger sized with a wide sizer.

If You’re Buying a Ring for Your Loved One

If you’re buying for someone else and don’t want to spoil then surprise then read on.

Whether it’s an engagement or wedding ring or a gift, trying to buy “on the fly” is not easy!

Try the below tips and if all fails, then just come clean and ask for their finger size, leaving it at that… the suspense will kill them!

If you are still adamant a surprise is in order but cannot get their ring size no matter what you try, I do have another option. If I have something suitable in stock, I will be more than happy to send it your way (after payment in full has been received). If the ring does not fit, or the person does not like it, we can either exchange it or remake it to the purchase amount (or go with something else). Please note though; I do not offer this service on custom work.

Tips of Getting Their Finger Size Right

– If you’re a bloke and trying to figure this out, your best bet would be to recruit one of her friends to help you with this task. Ask your “wing-woman” to find a way to measure your girlfriend’s finger size and find out what style she likes while she’s at it. Potentially they could “accidentally on purpose” pop into a local jewellery store one day and get each other’s sizes measured.

– Don’t measure by drawing around an old ring (and sending the diameter to me) or using an online guide. An online guide should only be used as that – a guide. Unfortunately, they are not particularly accurate.

– If the person already has a ring the right size and you can sneak it into a jewellery store, it can be sized on a measuring stick to check its size. Wide band size is whatever letter or number sits in the middle of the band. For example, inside of the fused band in the pic sits on O 1/2, but on a narrow ring, it’s the outside edge you are after.

If a Ring Needs Resizing

Even after all this effort, sometimes things don’t go exactly to plan, and we need to resize, even after 20 years in the business I ( I would be lying if I said I did not ) get the size occasionally wrong.

If this is the case, contact me as soon as you can.  Do not panic, on a scale of life-threatening issues, a ring that does not quite fit is rather low on the totem pole!

If the problem is due to an error on my part, all costs involved are covered by me. If the error is on your part – then I will only charge the minimum that it costs to correct the problem.

**As a rule of thumb, we can resize up to 3 sizes up and down. Any more can sometimes put stress on the stones. Think about it a bit like dress sizes – you can only alter minor, not major.

In major cases, it is often a remake.

Ring resizing starts at around $45, but if we need to laser weld, then it can be anywhere around $80 to $90, although gold can often cost more.

If it’s a gold ring, keep in mind that some resizing may require more gold added, which means greater cost. Each job is different.

sizing rings finger sizing stick

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Posted in News

THE BIG THREE

Tuesday, March 3rd, 2020

I’m often asked to price up emeralds, rubies ( eg: Ruby wedding rings!) and sapphires for works and more often than not people are taken aback by the price. So I thought I would write a post about what I term as the ” BIG THREE ” .

Genuine Emeralds, Sapphires, and Rubies tend to be more expensive than other gemstones, like amethyst, garnet, citrine, etc. In fact, a very high quality emerald, sapphire or ruby can be even more expensive per carat than a diamond.

Why is that the case?

Emeralds, Sapphires, and Rubies (the “big 3”) are generally considered precious gemstones where as most other gemstones are considered semi-precious. ( apart from some Spinels). There are several reasons for this. For example, Sapphires and rubies are among the hardest gemstones, with a Mohs scale hardness index of 9 (out of 10). The Mohs scale is an index of the “hardness” of each gemstone. In other words, each gemstone on the scale can scratch the ones below it. A diamond has the hardest rated on the Mohs scale and gets a score of 10 (even though the diamond is 4 times harder than a sapphire, showing that the scale does not have a uniform hardness increase). The emerald gets a 7.5 – 8 on the Mohs scale which seems high , yet it’s one of the most difficult and brittle gems to work with!

To compare, other gemstones have a slightly lower hardness level, such as topaz (8), amethyst (7), citrine (7), garnet (6.5-7.5), and tanzanite (6.5-7) .

Other factors that play into the cost of the ruby, emerald, and sapphire is rarity. The top “3” gemstones continue to be the rarest of all gems and therefore usually the most expensive. While it is true that some gemstones, such as genuine alexandrite can be

more expensive than the big 3, stones like alexandrite are an exception to the rule because of their extreme rarity. Other rare gemstones such as stones with unusual colour or larger size combined with exceptional quality can also be an exception to the rule. Cuts of gemstones can also play a role in determining price, along with quality.

You can sometimes find “cheaper” gemstone jewellery, but if you are paying too little for a GOOD  emerald, ruby, or sapphire, you have to ask why. You can find cheap, commercial-grade emeralds on the mass market in commercial stores., but they will often be dry, cracked on the surface or full of imperfections on the inside with low clarity ratings.

In fact most emeralds I see for remodelling are badly cut ,very pale and of an exceptionally low grade. As emeralds are very soft and brittle to work with I often find I have to turn the work down, as it becomes to risky to try and reuse them. Sometimes they crumble like cookies under just a small amount of pressure being applied in the setting process.

Truly exceptional emeralds in that intense colour we love can fetch up to $20,000 PER CARAT. That’s like say a 6.5mm round emerald can cost a huge amount, far, far more than even the most exquisite of white diamonds. Although Argyle pink diamond may up stage that!

I prefer manmade emeralds to work with – same vibrant colour.  Harder wearing and much less costly if I break one.

Emerald, diamond – chunky white gold band

Rubies can get crazy expensive too , when in Sri Lanka a few years back I was offered a ” pigeon blood ” pair @ 8 x 6 mm ovals for $15,000 USD ,WHOLESALE!

That same pair today would cost me @ $25,000!

I tend to use cheaper Indian rubies and Indian star rubies ,in Cabochon form OR a Lab Grown ethically made far less costly alternative.

https://www.debrafallowfield.com/collections/finger/atlantis-ruby/

Sapphire is the only gem that has a lower price point than diamond – and by that I am talking about the most exceptional colourless ,internally flawless diamond – not your old run of the mill MH solitaire.

Where sapphires are concerned the Ceylonese blue variety is by far more expensive than African or Australian .

Pricing depends greatly on the stones colour and saturation , the top dollar stones have incredible colour!

In May 2011, the stunning 130.50 carat Burmese Sapphire set a new world record price for a blue sapphire, breaking the previous record by over $3.5 Million. The gem reports that accompanied the Sapphire, indicated that it had no evidence of any treatments and the colour could be described as ‘Royal Blue’. This size and clarity of the stone are also very impressive.

It’s not unusual to pay well over $11,000 USD for top material – although I try very hard to find good quality sapphires that do not cost the earth , in blue and all colours!

https://www.debrafallowfield.com/collections/commitment/ceylonese-sea-foam-blue-green-sapphire-ring/

Below shows recent auction pricing on the top three with diamond.

 

Posted in News

Choosing Metal for Your Wedding Ring

Monday, November 18th, 2019

Choosing a metal for your wedding ring is a personal choice. However, if you aren’t sure about which way to go with this, I’ve put together several things to consider and help you with such an important purchase.

Skin colour. Your skin colour can often indicate which metal compliments you, stands out and looks great on you.  Shiny or brushed rings can also play a significant part in what suits your colouring. Whether you meet with me in person or order online, I always try to establish what metal colour will suit your skin tone best.

As a generalisation, olive skin suits yellow gold and fair skin rose gold, and shiny white gold or silver seems to work with most skin types. Brushed white gold or brushed silver is best on olive or tanned skin. However once again this is only MY observation.

Value. Everyone has an estimated budget. So your metal choice may depend on your budget as well as what value this ring will hold for you. For example, most of the cost of creating a silver band is in its construction, whereas a gold wedding ring holds a lot of value in the metal itself.

Skin sensitivity. Some people are sensitive to certain metals. Usually, it’s due to either nickel or copper in metals. If you have skin sensitivity, I always suggest choosing white gold, which is the safest option – as it does not contain copper or nickel.

If you would rather prefer yellow, rose or red gold, I suggest choosing higher carat metal, which has less chance for a skin reaction. Sterling silver, yellow, rose and red gold all contain some copper but no nickel.
The amount of copper in yellow however gold is very, very slight.

Durability. There are lots of different opinions about this, but I am going to share mine. It’s important to know that your ring is reasonably durable for life, no matter what metal it’s made out of. When people talk about durability, they usually mean “How something wears over time ” and shows surface dings and scratches.

Jewellery is an expensive investment, no metal is indestructible so at the end of the day the better you look after your ring, the longer it will last and look new.

See comparison photos of two of the same style rings. One is made out of sterling silver, and the other one is made out of 9ct white gold. Both have a brushed finish. For this durability experiment, I asked my husband to wear both rings for two weeks without taking them off. It looked funny as he wore one on each hand, but the results were interesting. As you can see from the photo, the sterling silver ring shows far more wear than the white gold ring.

SILVER VS GOLD

Sterling silver consists of the Helvetica of metals 925 parts silver and 75 parts of copper.

Benefits:

Silver is great if you’re on a budget as it costs less than gold, especially in  the large heavy amounts I use.

Disadvantages:

You should stay away from silver if you heavily use your hands for work. Silver can easily scratch, dent and ding. If you’re into a more rustic look though, then it’s perfect. . Be aware that natural hot pools, swimming pools and sulphur can discolour silver. If you are also prone to allergies, don’t choose silver for your ring. Sterling silver doesn’t have nickel in it; however, sometimes it’s the copper that can cause an allergic reaction.

My husband is a prime example of someone who can’t wear silver. First, the ring goes black, followed by a horrid skin rash. So for him, it’s gold all the way!

Gold is almost always alloyed with other metals before being used in jewellery. In its pure form, it is too soft for everyday wear. Gold is measured in carats which show the level of purity. 24 carat is pure gold. 9 carat is 9 parts gold and 15 parts other metals (or around 1/3rd of gold). 14 carat is 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metals (or around 5/8ths gold) and 18 carat is 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metals (or 3/4 gold). In general, the higher the carat, the softer and heavier it is.

Benefits:

Gold is suitable for many budgets, as jewellery pieces can be of different carats. Also, it’s a world-recognised commodity .

Gold has a lustre to it that silver just cannot replicate and an inherent weight and holds it’s value overtime .

It’s also far superior to sterling silver in hardness and durability. The bottom line is there is a reason why gold is so popular for engagement and wedding rings. I urge you to consider paying a little extra for gold because, in the long term, it will save you money.

Disadvantages:

If you’re into super bright and white metal jewellery, then gold is not for you. Unless you go with 9ct white gold, but even then it will have a warm white tone to it. 14ct white gold is a cooler white, but 18ct white gold in it’s natural non Rhodium plated finish is very grey looking. Rhodium-plating is commonly used by commercial jewellers to give white gold a very shiny, bright silver like finish. But here is the thing – it wears off in a few months meaning you have to have it redone continually! To me, that is insane, time-consuming and at $200 a pop expensive! I do not rhodium-plate my work at all.

ETHICAL ALLUVIAL GOLD
I try to only to use alluvial New Zealand gold. It is eroded out of the mountains naturally by water, then collected by people. From small scale fossickers to river dredgers to large scale gravel deposit mining, it all has an impact. In my opinion, alluvial gold has a lot less impact than hard rock mining. You know, the kind with the giant holes in the ground and tanks full of cyanide. This may sometimes have a little recycled gold mixed in, but the gold in your ring will always be around 70 {5f012ed296dba5fac9fc7119d8346bdddc246b29cdda9da1d268f2ef9c3fe197} pure New Zealand alluvial gold.

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Posted in News

Gem Setting Types and Process

Thursday, October 24th, 2019

gem_setting_nz

If I have ever created a custom piece for you, you may have heard me say something along the lines of “the ring is just waiting to be set” or “it’s at the setters”.

I wanted to explain a little bit more about the term “setting” (stone setting) and what it means in the jewellery industry as well as talk about other various methods involved.

Stone setting is the process of a gemstone being securely attached into the  jewellery setting . In pretty much every case, it is the last stage of completing a jewellery piece.

I often get such questions like “what holds the gems in place? Are they glued in?” or “will the gems fall out?”. My answer is always a definite “No”. I can assure you that there is no glue involved in holding stones in jewellery. 

While my husband does the majority of our gem setting in house, I still use a very experienced gem setter for my more complex jobs (she is worth her weight in gold!). Believe it or not, a gem or diamond setter is actually a separate trade to being a jeweller, and takes many years of training.

There are many different variations of gem setting. I personally sometimes like to “mix up” my setting and use 2 – 3 different techniques in one piece. Below I’m going to explain the methods my husband, and I often use.

GRAIN SETTINGgrain_setting_ring_nz

This type of setting is also called bead setting or pave setting. During this process pave gems are tightly set to cover the work, as shown in my “Diamond Starduster” ring. 

Smaller gems are often set close to one another, so you cannot see the tiny “beads” holding them in place. The “beads” are created by a tiny chisel that rolls a small piece of metal at a few points around the stone, then that “bead” is pushed over the stone to secure it in place. This allows the stones to catch the light and sparkle beautifully. This setting gives any piece of jewellery a vintage or starry look.

I love to use this setting to create beautifully flowing “rivers” of multi-coloured diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. I never plan the placement of gems too much and prefer to work them into jewellery in a somewhat slightly chaotic mosaic.

Grain setting is fabulous for remodelling old gemstones that are either too small to flush set or have too many inclusions or little chips.

FLUSH SETTINGflush_setting_ring_nz

This setting type has lots of names – rub over, gypsy or burnish, but all refer to pretty much the same technique.

In this style of setting a gemstone is placed into a drilled hole. It sits inside of jewellery and doesn’t show above the surface of the piece. See it demonstrated in my “Brushed Blues” ring here.

Flush setting is perfect for a ring band and especially if its owner leads an active lifestyle or has a type of work where there is a high chance of stones “being caught”. Flush setting protects gemstones far better than a claw setting, for example. 

In this setting, a stone sits on the ledge inside the hole. This ledge is ground out of the metal with a special setting burr. The setter then uses a highly polished burnisher,  to push and mould metal around the stone to make sure the stone sits in place securely. Sometimes a special mechanical hammer handpiece attached to a pendant drill is used to punch the metal around harder stones. At the very end, a graver, which is a sharp steel device, is used to smooth everything to create a bright and shiny metal finish. 

While it sounds relatively straight-forward, this technique is anything but that. In fact, it demands total accuracy, only experienced gem setters can do a great job of making it look nice and clean and not like a butchered job. 

Flush setting can be very time-consuming!

I personally love using this setting with wide brushed gold bands, as the brush finish makes the stones stand out and pop.

Flush setting does have its limitations, though. The stone needs to be no smaller than 1.5mm round and no larger than at 4mm round for this setting to work. Another important factor here is that the stone ideally needs to be well-cut and have higher hardness like diamond, sapphire or moissanite. Shapes like oval or square can also be very challenging for this setting type.

BEZEL SETTING bezel_setting_ring_nz

This setting was one of the first methods used for setting stones into jewellery. In this style, the metal securely wraps around the stone like in my “Star Ruby” ring.

I often use bezel setting on larger gemstones, especially on “Cabochon” stones.  It gives the work a modern contemporary or even rustic feel, which is very different from the cookie-cutter style you find in the mainstream jewellery stores.

A cabochon is a gemstone with a rounded/convex and highly polished top. Its name comes from French “caboche” which means “small dome”. Such stones have a flat base and no faceting. The oval and round shape is the most common for such stones, although they can be cut in any other shape.

The first setting you will ever do at a jewellery class is a bezel setting of a cabochon.

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Amethyst as a Gemstone

Wednesday, August 21st, 2019

amethyst_engagement_ring_nz

Many know the bright purple semi-precious stone called Amethyst. It comes from a family of quartz and is often used in jewellery works with a healing meaning.

The name of this stone comes from Greek. It means “sober up” or “to not intoxicate”. It was used by Romans and Greeks to keep themselves sober. They often drunk wine from amethyst cups to help their cause. Amethyst was also used to help with addictions, grief and insomnia.

It is believed that Amethyst was used amongst royalty during Neolithic times, where it was incorporated in royal rings and crowns.

Amethyst is February’s birthstone and belongs to astrological signs of Aquarius, Sagittarius, Pisces and Aries.

The stone is mainly found in Brazil, but many other parts of the world like Russia, India, Brazil, US, Canada, Australia, and South Korea have natural sources of it as well. However, only a few countries provide high-quality dark colour.

About the Stone

Amethyst measures 7 on the Mohs hardness scale. The reason why Amethyst has a purple colour compared to other clear quartz is due to aluminium and iron present during the stone’s formation. Amethyst colour is various shades of purple. Some stones have a very light shade, and others are quite dark. Occasionally there are red dots or hues or blue hues visible in the stone.

Amethyst and Citrine

These are considered twin stones which belong to the same quartz family. They share many of the same properties but yet are still different. During Amethyst’s formation and when it is exposed to heat, Citrine is produced. This is why Citrine’s nickname “burnt amethyst” exists. During rare occasions of finding Citrine and Amethyst together as one piece, people call it ametrine.

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Moissanite ~ What is it & why you should seriously consider it

Tuesday, August 20th, 2019

Moissanite_engagement_ring_nz

“I always like to tell my customers”…

“Moissanite isn’t a fake diamond, it is its own gem and chemical composition,” Cubic zirconia may be a better-known  ( very cheap and a little nasty ) diamond alternative, but it doesn’t have the same unique qualities as moissanite. ”

For the longest time, there was no good alternative to diamonds.

Stones like CZ become cloudy over time, have a not-so diamond-like blueish undertone, don’t sparkle like a diamond, and are not hard enough to wear daily to hold up over a lifetime.

Moissanite however is extremely hard wearing, near impossible to chip never clouds or loses its sparkle, and thanks to the innovation of facet patterns, it looks identical to a diamond.

Moissanite Discovery

They say that moissanite is a gemstone born from the stars. It was discovered in 1893 by French scientist Henri Moissan inside a meteorite crater in Arizona. He thought he’d just found a diamond and after studying it in a lab, Moissan found out it was silicon carbide, which he named moissanite.

Where Moissanite Comes From

In recent years some quantities were found in Israel; however, mined moissanite isn’t suitable to be used in jewellery. So this gem is lab-grown these days, which makes it environmentally friendly and conflict-free as well. Many appreciate and choose socially-responsible jewellery, which provides assurance and guarantees like moissanite.

Growing moissanite in a laboratory isn’t easy or straightforward either. Only a very few companies in the world can create this complex process of growing moissanite gems. It is certainly a mix of science and art!

This makes moissanite rarer than diamonds.

Strong Moissanite

While moissanite looks and behaves like a famous diamond, not many know it is more brilliant than a diamond. That’s because moissanite reflects more light. This clever gem can also stay brilliant for longer as its surface attracts less grime and dirt than a diamond. So it sparkles for much longer between cleans.

It is made to be worn every day no matter what conditions, as it’s very durable and scratch and heat-resistant. So it’s needless to say that it delights its owner for a lifetime. Moissanite is harder than rubies and sapphires with the Mohs hardness scale rating of 9.25. Being heat-resistant brings a massive advantage to moissanite, and this is why:

● This gem can be cast in place more precisely, which produces exact-fit designs.
● Repairing your moissanite jewellery is easy and will not damage the jewels.
● Gems can survive extreme temperatures like fire.

Affordability

You’d think that something rarer and more brilliant than a diamond will be expensive, but the answer is no. Moissanites are generally lower in price than diamonds, so it’s very affordable. Jewellery with moissanite allows its owner the option of choosing a gem size they truly desire.

COLOUR GRADING OF MOISSANITE

For those wanting a near-colourless stone, a moissanite is a great option – colourless moissanite is the equivalent of the MOST EXPENSIVE and rare diamond colour grading D-E.

Coloured moissanite has a lesser price point and comes in blues, greens, greys, yellow, pink and shades of champagne.

Moissanite is an Ethical Choice Compared to Many Diamonds

The diamond industry has very questionable ethics even today ( Goggle De Beers “diamond cartel ” and you can read all about the many unethical practises the industry turns a blind eye to).

There are many jewellery companies that use the phrase ” ethical mined” or ” sustainably mined” or some other catchphrase. And whilst I too use mined gems from only ethical suppliers  – at the end of the day, these are  STILL MINED!

Underground mining can cause tunnel collapses, contaminate water, release toxins into the air, erode soil and destroy vegetation.

Not only that hazardous chemicals used to extract and process the gemstones can leak into the environment, harming local human populations- did you know it can take many tonnes of precious water to mine a single sapphire?

By far the worst example is Myanmar who supplies many of the world’s rubies, sapphire, jade, garnet, lapis lazuli and moonstones, among others, in fact, 80% of the worlds rubies come from Myanmar. Funds from these mining industries are partly controlled by and distributed to the country’s military, who are still carrying out ethnic cleansing of the Rohingya. While the situation is complex, (we also need political intervention and systemic change so that small miners don’t lose their livelihoods with no support as collateral damage) purchasing any of these stones means that you run a high chance of funding genocide.

By choosing moissanite you can be assured it’s created in an ethical and sustainable way – plus you get the “diamond” look for a fraction of the diamond price and the feel-good factor it’s sustainable with a far smaller footprint than that mined diamond you may be considering.

 

 

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Remodelling Your Jewellery with Debra Fallowfield

Monday, April 15th, 2019

Reusing, repurposing and remodelling your old gold jewellery 

Reusing old jewellery is a rather complex process 

We wish it was as simple as pulling out the stones and melting your old gold together in a crucible to make something new.

Most jewellers do exactly this, to cut costs and effort, but experience has taught us this method is not acceptable for our high quality work standards and ethics.

This is owing to the fact all manufactured gold has some form of an alloy or various alloys mixed into it and without scientific testing in a lab, it’s impossible to know what the alloy metals in your old gold are, much less their quantities.

Often when you melt old gold all together without refining it first you end up with major problems such as pitting, strange blemishes and/or brittleness. So often we see examples of badly made remodels in the studio where the jeweller has used this method and the results are less than satisfactory. Infact we have seen many, many remodels at the studio where the customer has gone for the cheaper option from another jeweller, only to be bitterly disappointed with their new jewellery.

*Metals commonly alloyed with gold for jewellery purposes can vary dramatically, but can include silver, copper, nickel, iron, zinc, tin, manganese, cadmium, and titanium

We can still reuse your old gold jewellery but we send it away to be refined first ( after any stones are removed )

Your gold once refined is returned to us as pure gold granules ready for re casting and *re-alloying into any colour gold you like- it is still your ORIGINAL gold, it is just devoid or any other elements.

Sometimes  you lose up to 50% of the golds original weight during this process, in jewellery terms this is known as ” roasting”.

Adding to the above comment most of the old gold we view is VERY lightweight in comparison to our work ( Our  rings can weigh up to 10 times more than a commercially made mass-produced ring), therefore we generally need to add considerably more gold pre casting.

So if you consider remodelling a huge cost-saving venture- think again!

Often the number of work hours in a remodel can be 5 times longer than a piece started from scratch, just removing the stones from their settings can take a full day’s work.

We often use the example of a dressmaker cutting a couture dress out of old fabric scraps, and then sewing each scrap carefully back together to make a beautiful new garment.

If you can visualise how much more work that would take, rather than having a dress constructed from a new bolt of cloth, you get an idea of how much work it often takes to reuse old jewellery.

So is it worthwhile to do?

ABSOLUTELY!

Do it once – do it right!

Our remodelling service retains all the sentiments and memories from the original pieces, but now they become wearable!

Debra is renowned worldwide for her immense skill and talent in this genre, you only need to look at her remodelling gallery to see the incredible before and afters.

Between Debra and her husband, they have over 27 years of combined expertise, not only in design but also in construction as well.

If You’d Like a Different Gold Colour to Your Old Jewellery:

Debra can mix different alloys with your refined gold granules before casting your new ring.

Remodelling Your Sterling Silver Jewellery:
Unfortunately, we cannot reuse sterling silver, as it is not economically viable

Reusing Your Gems: Your gems will need to be of decent quality to reuse. Often their size determines how they can be reused. Commonly the commercially made jewellery we see seems to have badly cut,  low-grade gems in them, making setting and reusing them a challenge. We will let you know whether they are reusable or not before we start, with a close inspection under a microscope.

We can also add more gems to the design if needed too – and do so often

Please note that working with your gems is entirely at your own risk (you will be asked to sign a contract before work commences).

Financials:

The minimum fee for a gold remodel is $3500 upwards, some customers prefer to credit their old gold and remake in sterling silver, which is far less costly

Interested in Remodelling?

  • Please send a photo of your old jewellery
  • Please send a photo of my designs you like the look of as a reference for creating your new piece.
  • Provide your finger size and what colour gold you prefer.

From this we should be able to give you a “ballpark” figure, however, sketches and a final quote cannot be ascertained until we inspect the old jewellery closely.

Debra will also send a remodelling contract and ask you to sign and return it before any work commences. Usually, we are happy to take your old gold as a deposit towards the new work, however, should we need to purchase extra gems a deposit may be requested.

As with all my custom work the final product may differ slightly from any original sketches supplied. Please be aware as an artist Debra reserves the right to some creative license on works.

Whilst the majority of remodelling work is done in-house, very occasionally we will send work off to have your gems inset into the new piece by a diamond setter if they appear to have a very challenging cut.

We no longer offer valuations on the new work as we are not registered valuers- we suggest you have your new jewellery revalued as soon as possible for insurance purposes.

Due to the high demand for Debra’s remodelling work, please allow up to 3 MONTHS for completion.

Should you decide to leave your old jewellery with me and not proceed, you have 6 months to pick up your old jewellery after which we have the right to dispose of it any way we see fit.

REMODELLING EXAMPLE

Here are some before and after photos of old customer gold before it is refined

Photo one on the left shows an old bracelet and ring with stones removed weighing 7.2 grams.

Photo two on the right shows another bunch of old gold jewellery consisting of 3 rings and a pair of earrings which weigh 8.3 grams only.

All this gold once refined only weighed in at 9.3 grams after refining.

We  added more gold – and the new ring weighed in at 17.3 grams

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The Power of Stones

Monday, February 11th, 2019

power_of_stonesOver the years some people attached meanings to stones and believed they had mystical powers to help with certain things they would like to have or help with in their life. For example, diamonds are for love. Jade is for protection. Pearls mean purity.

In the modern world, many still believe that stones hold powers. What is it about these stones that makes some think they are powerful? Could these stones attract people with a subtle message “I’m beautiful, please wear me” or is it something else?

Well, gemstones are made of unique molecules which are formed underground over millions of years. They are tough and very durable. This already makes them special.

Various researchers have been either debunking the concept that stones hold powers or proving the fact that they do. Looking at the research which focused on proving that stones have power in them, it was found that they emit energetic fields, which also include pyroelectricity and piezoelectricity. That’s, ladies and gentlemen, simply put energy.  As many know quartz is used in watches and electronics due to its precise vibration frequencies. It is also used to transmit TV and radio signals.

Of course, no stone will help us solve our life problems, however having a stone and believing in it can provide one with strength and courage, which is sometimes enough to help bring something great into one’s life.

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Where did the engagement ring originate from?

Monday, February 11th, 2019

engagement_ring_historyEveryone knows what engagement rings are for these days. When a man (or a woman) proposes to their partner, a ring is given to symbolise the exciting occasion and the promise of marriage.  

Anthropologists say that originally this was a Roman tradition to show husband’s ownership of his future wife. Definitely, less romantic as we would’ve wanted the story to be…

It is believed that the very first diamond engagement ring was commissioned by Archduke Maximillian of Austria in 1477 for his loved one Mary of Burgundy. This then created a trend for engagement rings to have beautiful diamonds and mean something more than just ownership among European aristocracy.

Later Victorians started creating their engagement rings including gemstones mixed with diamonds as well as rings with designs from enamels and precious metals. Back then most engagement rings were made in flower shapes and called “posey rings.”

The next Edwardian era had engagement rings created in the same fashion where a master paired diamonds with jewels. There was also a new trend of mounting stones in filigree settings.

Fast-forward to the 19th century (in the 1930s), and we have De Beers launching a hugely successful diamond campaign “A Diamond is Forever” and showing movie stars wearing jewellery with the sparkly diamonds. This campaign was by far one of the biggest within the industry, which motivated great sales. Diamond’s durability was associated with the meaning that the marriage is forever.

These days some people show the level of commitment and their status with the quality of the diamond given to their loved one. Others get creative by giving a unique engagement ring with gemstones or different coloured diamonds. Either way, the engagement ring has come a long way since symbolising the ownership of a woman. It represents the commitment to marriage, deep love and celebration of a union. There are many options and styles available to people these days, which means you can create your one-of-a-kind ring.

Popular Diamond Cuts Over the Years

The round brilliant (made up of 58 facets dividing the top and the bottom half) has been most popular for engagement rings over the years. Followed by the princess, emerald and oval cut.

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Why Do We Wear Jewellery?

Friday, December 21st, 2018

engagement_commitment_rings_nzWhile we all know that a beautiful jewellery piece is gorgeous on the eye and adds glamour to its owner, we often don’t suspect that jewellery is more than just that. Gorgeous jewellery brings out deep-rooted and powerful happiness in many of us.  And here’s why:

  • Allows Self-Expression

We are all individual and want to express ourselves in whichever way we can. It is a natural human need! So highlighting our personality with jewellery is something we all subconsciously do. We might not understand it, but we definitely express our mood and what’s inside of us through jewellery.

  • Magnetising Jewellery

You may have heard that stones have energy… People are drawn to precious stones and especially when these stones are arranged in a beautiful jewellery piece. The effect is magnetising! Attracting others with your precious stones might not be your primary plan, but when it happens, you sure enjoy it.

  • Feeling Closer to Nature

21st-century modern life is busy and hectic. Wearing a piece with natural stones can make you feel closer to nature and even bring out an inner hippie in you. Whatever the feeling is, people enjoy it and appreciate natural stones or elements in their jewellery.

  • Holds memories

Each jewellery piece has a story behind it. Some stories are very special, especially if it’s engagement jewellery or something that was made in honour of someone special. The fact is, every piece holds a memory and we love it, as it reminds us of something or someone when we wear it.

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Important Questions to Ask Before Buying Jewellery

Friday, December 21st, 2018

Choosing_jewellery_asking_questionsShopping for beautiful sparkly jewellery is a fun experience where you get to look at options, compare, ask questions and finally become the proud owner of a gorgeous piece. However, there can be some factors to consider when choosing jewellery. So after listening to my customers and taking into consideration what we discuss, I decided to put together a list of ultimate questions to ask before buying jewellery.

What do I really want?

I know it might sound strange, but you should always ask yourself this question and understand precisely what you like even before approaching a jewellery shop. Think of a design, ideas, inspirations and favourite pieces you’ve seen in the past. Understand your own taste before talking to the jeweller. Although being open-minded and ready to explore something entirely new is also a plus. At the end of the day, you might follow your heart and fall in love with something different to your usual taste. The key here though is to know what that usual taste of yours is.

What is this metal?

If you see something you like, make sure to start asking questions like what metal it is made out of. Understanding whether it’s made out of platinum, gold or another type of metal won’t just give you an indication of its value, but let you know whether you like this metal or not. Some people prefer one metal over another, so if you’re one of them, I suggest you start by asking your jeweller to show pieces made out of the metal you prefer wearing.

What are these gemstones/diamonds?

If you’re looking at a piece which contains stones, make sure to ask what exactly they are. With so many different stones out there, you should never assume. A blue stone in a ring can be anything from topaz to sapphire (and even iolite). So check what the stone is as it’ll also indicate the jewellery’s value. There are also diamonds of various qualities, grades and colours. Ask your jeweller to explain what the diamond quality of the piece you’re looking at and what the difference between various types is.

Try it on!

Trying jewellery on is one of the most critical steps in understanding whether it suits you. We all have different looks to us and what suits one may not suit another. If you’re looking at earrings or necklace, it is especially important. You can then see how it looks on you and whether it highlights your beautiful features. Comparing jewellery pieces is also a good idea to understand what length or style looks best on you.

Aftercare?

Once you set your mind on a jewellery piece (and before actually buying it), check what aftercare instructions for it would be. Some jewellery requires more care than others. Some metals (like white gold) may fade faster than others requiring more regular cleans. And while gemstones are hardwearing, pearls can be affected by moisturises and perfumes so you would need to be aware of that and careful wearing them.

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Jewellery Personalities

Wednesday, November 14th, 2018

jewellery_personality_style_typeWe all have our preferences and dislikes around jewellery, but did you know you can guess someone’s personality by the jewellery they wear? Some even claim that the jewellery can say the most about who you are. Below is jewellery personality info, see if you can find yourself!

Centre of Attention

Chunky, big and statement jewellery is chosen by a strong personality who loves being in a limelight. Someone who loves standing out and making themselves centre of attention. So whether it’s a huge gemstone ring or gold collar necklace, you’re a centre of attention type of jewellery personality.

  • Romanic

This personality type isn’t all about hearts. You’ll see these people wearing pastel colours like pinks and rose gold pieces. They wear delicate or thin chains and jewellery with small details.

  • Whimsical

If you feel like you were a fairy in your past life and cannot stop thinking about having a rainbow coloured hair, this is you. Whimsical personality is all about having fun and their jewellery reflects it. They love cute charm bracelets or fun shaped pendants like unicorns.

  • Arty

Interesting, one of a kind and sometimes obscure jewellery can reflect its owner’s arty personality. They appreciate well-made jewellery pieces which sometimes don’t make sense, but have an interesting story to them. Think daring, bespoke and unique jewellery!

  • Bling

These people will always go for what sparkles the most. They appreciate diamonds and will flaunt their whole collection on any occasion. They wear a big shining smile and you will notice them from miles away. These people are all about being dazzling brilliant.

  • Fun and Funky

Mixing and matching (and not being afraid) is the key to this jewellery type. If you see someone who has multi-coloured bangles or mismatched earrings – they are the fun and funky personality type. Someone who can pull this jewellery style off is sure lots of fun to hang out with!

  • Classic

If your favourite jewellery has pearls in it and your favourite earrings are simple studs, you’re a classic jewellery lover which reflects your classic jewellery personality. Some call this jewellery style boring, but it’s a style which never goes out of fashion.

  • Hippie

If you often wear flowers in your hair, no shoes and natural jewellery like unpolished gems, you’re a laid-back person who’s most likely in touch with nature and love outdoors. If you gravitate to the natural style of jewellery, you’re a hippie jewellery personality. Your favourite jewellery pieces will have such colours as turquoise and stones like raw quartz, amethyst or moonstone.

  • Trendy

This would be the hardest style to wear and if you’re it, then congrats – you rock a great jewellery style! There are only a small group of fashionistas out there who know which way the trends are going before others. Sometimes their style is ridiculed but then appreciated (when the fashion is in full swing that is). Their jewellery is eye-catching and interesting and they think and live outside the box.

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